What we are asked most often.

It varies a lot with condition, scope, standard and access. That is why we price after an informal site visit, with a clear quote where labour, materials and subcontractors are specified.

Yes. We then help you with the order of work, so you do not do things twice. Windows, for example, are best done together with the cladding or the interior renovation.

Yes. We are happy to do the design, but just as happy to build from drawings by you or another architect.

Usually yes, and the extension has to stay within the permitted plot coverage in the zoning plan. We check the plan and handle the application for you.

Yes. We communicate in English, and we handle the building application and the contact with the municipality. You have one contact person from the first site visit to handover, so you do not need to be in Hemsedal for every decision.

Often, yes. A timber roof is fairly light and can usually be laid on the existing roof structure with a new underlay. A turf roof is far heavier, as wet turf weighs several hundred kilos per square metre, so we first check that the rafters and trusses can carry the load, and reinforce them if needed. It is also worth checking whether the zoning plan has requirements for roofing. We assess this on a site visit.

Not necessarily. Often it is enough to redo the flashing and roofing around the chimney. But if the underlay is old or damaged, it can pay to do a larger part of the roof at the same time. We look at the condition before recommending anything.

Usually because heat escapes through the roof and melts the snow, which then freezes again at the eaves. The cause is often too little insulation or missing ventilation under the roofing.

Yes. We remove and adapt the flashings and trim around the windows. But if you also add external insulation, the wall gets thicker and the windows end up deeper inside the wall. If the windows are older, we recommend considering new windows at the same time. Then it becomes one job instead of two.

Yes, we can often insulate from the outside at the same time as fitting new cladding. It takes some adaptation around windows, doors and roof overhangs, but you avoid tearing out the interior.

Replacing cladding with something similar is normally treated as maintenance. If you change the look significantly, or the zoning plan has requirements for materials and colours, an application may be needed. We check this for you.

Yes. The same size is simplest, and we then adapt the trim and flashings. Larger windows mean opening the wall, altering the framing above and around the window and patching the cladding. This can show on the facade, and changing the facade may require an application. We show you what is possible on a site visit.

If the cabin is used a lot in winter, you will notice the difference: less heat loss, a warmer glass surface and less cold draught when you sit by the window.

That is a good sign. The glass insulates so well that the outer pane gets cold, and it can mist up in the morning. Condensation between the panes, on the other hand, means the sealed unit has failed.

It almost always pays to do it at the same time. When the wall is insulated, it gets thicker and the wind barrier moves further out. The window should move with it, so it sits in the insulation layer and can be sealed directly to the wind barrier. If the old windows stay, they end up deep inside the wall, behind the wind barrier. That leaves a cold bridge around the frame, deep reveals and difficult sealing between window and wind barrier. If the windows are replaced a few years later, linings, trim, flashings and often parts of the cladding and panelling have to be removed and redone. That means twice the work and twice the cost.

Often we can insulate and seal from the crawl space, with a wind barrier under the floor joists. That gives a warmer floor without tearing up the floor inside.

It should be checked. Damp and mould in the crawl space is one of the most common kinds of damage in older cabins. It is often solved with better ventilation, a vapour barrier on the ground or a dehumidifier.